Do I have to fill in the holes on the edges?
NOTE: If the holes on the edges of the slab bother you, please, stop reading and don’t buy our product. If you love them, continue reading…
TMI leaves the air holes on the edges exposed and unfilled because it gives the product a more “natural” look. Instead of looking like the stone was cast in a small factory in Washington State, the stone actually looks like it was formed from some great geological process. The holes and chipped out edges give the product the unique look it has that is unmatched in the industry and you probably chose Squak Mountain Stone™ for that very reason. So, if you’re an installer, be sure to ask your client if they want the holes to remain on the edges because we haven’t developed a clever way for getting them back once they’ve been filled in. And yes, we have actually been asked to do this by saddened customers with “perfect” countertop edges!
What do I fill the holes with if I want them gone?
In our experience, the best choice is a fortified grout. (A color chart is available below.) Please be aware that any filler may pop out and require renewal. It is recommended that sealer be applied after any filler.
Do I need a substrate under the stone?
That depends. Plywood substrates are used to help distribute the weight of heavy materials across a larger surface area and are commonly used under natural stone and concrete. A substrate also provides some flexural support for stones across large spans. Squak Mountain Stone™ isn’t as heavy as granite and concrete so it’s not likely to crush cabinets from its weight. However, like all cement and concrete materials, Squak Mountain Stone™ has poor flexural strength compared to granite and resin counters. Substrates are also useful for supporting sink areas, particularly undermount sinks, so the sink can rest on the substrate instead of hanging from the slab (See “Can I screw into Squak Mountain Stone™?”). A substrate can also be used for securing a dishwasher. However, efficiently placed bracing or brackets can achieve the same results.
Do I have to cut it wet?
Wet cutting of stone has two purposes. First, for really hard stones, such as granite, wet cutting keeps the saw blade cool, to prevent it from warping and making crooked cuts. Second, it keeps the dust from cutting down by trapping it in the water. Squak Mountain Stone™ isn’t hard enough to warp saw blades, so it can be dry cut. However, and this is important, Squak Mountain Stone™ may contain respirable silica (RCS), which would be present when the material is being cut or sanded. RCS can be present in all sorts of materials, including granites, quartz glass, and concrete. Using water is the best form of protection from releasing RCS into the atmosphere where it can be breathed in. Before installing Squak Mountain Stone™ that has been cut with a wet saw, make sure it has had a chance to dry out. If water is not going to be used, make sure to use proper NIOSH-approved respirator masks for protection from RCS. Use mechanical ventilation (like a vacuum at the dust source) and never dry sweep the dry dust. Use a dampened broom or rag or a vacuum.
NOTE: Independent analysis of Squak Mountain Stone has verified that the product contains less than 1% RCS, thanks largely to the use of recycled crushed glass instead of sand.
WARNING: If the slabs are still damp when installed, they may leave “moisture shadows” when objects are left on the counters as the excess moisture is trying to leave the slab the through the least-path-of resistance: the top. The incidence of these shadows will lessen over time as the moisture evaporates. Depending on weather conditions and the amount of water used to do water cutting, it may take several days for the slabs to dry out. If speed is a factor for installation, dry cutting is the best way to go. Also, during the fabrication process, if the slabs are moist or damp, stencils left on the surfaces for more than 30 minutes can also create shadows as the moisture is trying to leave the slabs. Suction pads/cups from CNC tools can also cause shadowing.
How do I deal with the joints in the counters?
As you may have noticed, each slab of Squak Mountain Stone™ is unique. Unlike mass-manufactured materials or some granite, each slab will have its own character and texture. This means that despite your best efforts to make the physical seam between slabs as small as possible, you will always be able to tell that there is a transition. With that said, here are a couple of rules regarding joints in Squak Mountain Stone™:
1. ALWAYS place joints over supports, such as sides of cabinets. If that’s not possible, then plan on placing bracing of some sort to fully support the joint. This will keep the joint from deflecting. If possible, plan out your kitchen cabinets with the dimensions of Squak Mountain Stone™ slabs. If your cabinets are already there, then plan out your layout of the joints to land where you already have supports in place. If you can’t avoid joints falling in the center of a drawer or similar condition, consider installing Squak Mountain Stone™ with a plywood substrate for support. If in doubt, consult with your installer on the best layout for slabs.
2. The easiest way to get durable seams is to use a color-matched fortified tile grout. Don’t apply the grout AFTER the slabs are seamed together as it will increase the likelihood that it will shrink into the gap between the slab. You should butter up the edges of the slabs with grout the full height right before pushing the pieces together. Then simply smooth away any excess material that squeezes out the top of the joint using a wet sponge. Because the grout completely fills the joint, top to bottom, it’s less apt to shrink and sink. You can use pre-mixed tile grout, grout-caulk, or fortified dry grout, mixed with water or acrylic additives. It is important to match the grout color to the slab color if you want “invisible seams”. You will be able to find pre-colored grouts that match the standard Squak colors at any local tile supply store in a dry mix that you can keep and mix up when you need it or you can, through some trial and error, mix your own on site, using a bone or antique white base grout with liquid pigments.
Can I screw into Squak Mountain Stone™?
Yes, but with special considerations. Squak Mountain Stone™ has a core like brick, so if screws are used, they need to be used with a molly or shield. The molly should be embedded and held with some epoxy to make sure it has good, strong contact with the stone. Be sure to clean the dust out of the hole.
IMPORTANT: Some undermount sinks are installed by hanging the sink from the countertop above with screws. TMI does not recommend this type of installation for Squak Mountain Stone™. Undermount sinks should be supported by bracing or a substrate and not supported by the slab itself. There are a number of undermount sink brace kits available to fabricators.
Do I need to protect the sealed surface during installation? What happens if I scratch it?
You should always protect the countertop from abrasions during the installation process with cardboard or butcher paper. AVOID using any tape on Squak to avoid damaging its surface or the sealer. Most sealers are not exceptionally scratch or abrasion-proof and can become damaged and scratched from the use of saws and sanders.
How far can I cantilever the slab?
TMI conducted its own in-house testing of cantilever distances. When the end of 72″ slab was cantilevered out 12″ it supported nearly 400 lbs before it cracked. The flexural strength of Squak Mountain Stone™ (at 28 days) is 350 psi (determined by independent laboratory testing). TMI understands that each installation is unique, however it is recommended that cantilevers extend no greater than 12″ without additional supports, such as bracing or corbels. Always verify structural needs with an engineer for your installation.
How far can I span between supports?
Through in-house testing, TMI found that Squak Mountain Stone™ could support nearly over 700 lbs of dead weight when it was centered on a 30″ span (distance between two supports.) This distance was tested because it reflects a typical free-span found in most kitchens, such as the space the dishwasher occupies. Several slabs were tested and the results were the same. Because each installation is unique, your engineer should always verify the use and installation with the flexural strength of Squak Mountain Stone™ to determine the correct placement of support. Our own testing confirms that for most residential kitchen applications (without people dancing on the countertops!) Squak Mountain Stone™ can span across as far as 30″ without any additional reinforcing or supports.
